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Collection Benajah Jay Antrim Journals

Timeline of Benajah Jay Antrim’s Journey to California through Mexico, 1849

A chronology of key events and descriptions of sketches made during Benajah Jay Antrim’s 1849 journey to California through Mexico. Details, which include notations of dates and places where Antrim made the sketches in Volume 4 Sketchbook of Mexico and California, 1849, are from his dated journal entries in California Journal [Journey Through Mexico] 1849, Volume 1 and Volume 2. (See also Volume 3 Mexico Journal, 1849, and pen and ink sketches in Volume 5 Mexico sketchbook [Panorama Around the World], 1849).

Volume One

  1. 1849, Jan.

    Benajah Jay Antrim begins writing his journal from 33½ Market Street, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America.  He describes the formation of the Camargo Company of forty travelers, who are mostly Americans, one from Germany.
    Title page, Benajah J. Antrim, Vol. 1 California Journal [Journey Through Mexico], 1849. Benajah J. Antrim Papers. Image 10
  2. 1849, Feb. 1

    The brig Thomas Walters departs Philadelphia with the Camargo Company members aboard. Despite sleety cold weather, the company receives a farewell from a crowd at the wharves upon departure. Roll is called and Antrim lists the names, cities of origin, and some of the ages of the forty members of the company in the pages of his journal.
  3. 1849, Feb. 1-21

    Accounts of the time at sea.
  4. 1849, Feb. 22

    The company makes landfall at the river port of Tampico, off the Gulf of Mexico, in the Mexican state of Tamaulipas, and passes with their baggage through the Custom House.
  5. 1849, Feb. 23

    Antrim draws scenes in town and crosses the Pánuco River to the shore of the adjoining state of Vera Cruz, to sketch the city of Tampico from a distance.  He comments that “To a citizen of the States unaccustomed to foreign life, it at once presented an oriental appearance.” He notes that the city features two plazas, or public squares, the principal one facing the river and paved with limestone, the other located further back from shore “upon which two of the military posts and a small plain cathedral are located.”  Tampico’s streets are laid at right angles, and three-fourths of the buildings Antrim observes were one-story high, constructed of bamboo, wood, or stone, and plastered on the exteriors, while the suburbs were made up of cabins of bamboo, thatched with leaves of palmetto.  “Singular plants with the beautiful flowers and foliage of Spring combined with the lively colors of the dwellings, gave to Tampico, a singular and highly interesting appearance.”  He describes the buildings, monuments, food and markets of the city, and characteristics he observed of its occupants.
  6. 1849, Feb. 25

    Antrim attends church at the cathedral and finds few attendees present.
  7. 1849, Feb. 26

    “No rain and weather excessively warm, and mosquitos innumerable and insupportable.”  Antrim climbs to the bluff on the river and “from the highest part of it sketched scene no. 3 (see image 15 of volume 4 sketchbook).  He writes in his journal of the landscape, mountains, and bodies of water within view, including “a long and beautiful Laguna or Lake, being about 2 miles wide, beyond it in the direction of Vera Cruz [Veracruz], there are high mountains and fertile plains,” with a prairie in the foreground.
  8. 1849, Mar. 5

    The Company, having completed their arrangements for their baggage and hired horses and mules, began their journey by large canoes, traveling sixteen miles up the river, to an extensive farm or hacienda whose American landholder was “originally from the state of Ohio,” and grew sugar cane, coffee, and other crops. Antrim sketched illustration no. 4, “showing the Panuco river, the neighboring mountain which contains its ancient remains of a past city on it and the curious forest in its foreground.” (see image 17 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  9. 1849, Mar. 6

    Baggage is carefully repacked and weighed, for distribution to mules, horses, and packsaddles.
  10. 1849, Mar. 8

    The company, with “our guide Don Francisco, being in command as director of our order of march, interpreter, sub-commissary etc., and our other officers being elected,” sets off over prairie. “Westward ho!  all in lively spirits” and headed toward San Luis Potosi, about 350 miles from Tampico. “[O]ur company completely equipped with guns, rifles, revolvers, knives, swords, etc., was anything but pleasant for a guerrilla to look at, some of which we anticipated meeting.”  As they progress, they see wild game, and innumerable cattle and horses, roaming freely on the plain.
  11. 1849, Mar. 10

    They pass through forests of palmettos, making Antrim think of India or Africa, and encounter other travelers.  At day’s end, they encamp at a bamboo hut and bathe in the river.
  12. 1849, Mar. 11

    Antrim observes various types of trees, and wishes there was time to stop to sketch them. They stop the night at a rancho and proceed early by moonlight.
  13. 1849, Mar. 12

    They enter very rocky terrain, a challenge for horse and mule, who Antrim says climb like mountain goats bearing their packs of baggage, to bring the company over a mountain pass.  Antrim observes the remains of an ancient town and an ancient fort. Encamping at a village plaza, they pitch their tents and cook their own food.
  14. 1849, Mar. 13

    “We have discovered that milk, eggs, frioles [frijoles], tortillas, oranges, and coffee may be readily obtained at almost every place.”  The village has the remains of an ancient Catholic church and a chapel that contains “more real wealth than many of those magnificent edifices of the States.”  The horses are shod with shoes brought for them from Tampico.  Antrim sketches the priest of the parish and receives hospitality at the home of a local who proclaims that “he liked the Americans.”  The company departs towards the foot of the Sierra Madre Mountains, with villagers gathered to bid them goodbye.
  15. 1849, Mar. 14

    Begin ascent of the mountains.  Antrim notes “this days march was the most wild rugged and exhausting of any to San Louise [Luis] Potasi.”  They encamp at the “beautiful village of San Nicholas,” staying on the plaza at the foot of an imposing mountain.
  16. 1849, Mar. 16

    Antrim sketches the church and part of the plaza for plate no. 8 (see image 22 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  17. 1849, Mar. 17

    Antrim pencils sketches nos. 11 and 12, with 11 showing “our position in camp at the School house” at Tortugas (see image 27 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  18. 1849, Mar. 18

    The group proceeds on their journey and Antrim makes sketch no. 14 of a small salt lake on the valley plain (see image 29 of volume 4 sketchbook). Meanwhile one of their party stays behind hunting and becomes lost from the rest after making a wrong turn.  He is rescued after guides disperse to look for him, and “found much fatigued, frightened, and sick.”  The nights, meanwhile, grow colder as they reach higher elevations.
  19. 1849, Mar. 19

    Reach San Juan de Coretas; Antrim sketches the church and plaza as no. 15 (see image 31 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  20. 1849, Mar. 20

    Sketches no. 16 about a mile from Coretas, “showing the barren hills, a hacienda to the right, and the little clusters of bushes, dotting the ground like miniature islands” (see image 32 of volume 4 sketchbook).  They pass through hills and ravines all day (see sketch no. 18, image 34 of volume 4 sketchbook), and stop for a time at a hacienda called San Pedro, which he sketches as no. 17, “having a beautiful mountain view” (see image 33 of volume 4 sketchbook).  They meet up with part of the Camargo Company that traveled by a different road.
  21. 1849, Mar. 21

    Antrim completes sketches nos. 19 and 20, “an exterior and interior views of the desert house where we camped” (see images 35 and 36 of volume 4 sketchbook).  He comments on the dangerous quality of the water to the traveler, and water scarcity.  They arrive at Rancho de los Soledad, “previous to which I sketched scene No. 21, as we descended into the valley,” (see image 37 of volume 4 sketchbook) and then “No. 22 is a sketch of the Hacienda or Rancho de los Soledad and its neighboring mountain,” looking southeast (see image 38 of volume 4 sketchbook).  They find the townspeople they encounter increasingly less friendly to Americans and observe a residence that appears to house “a large amount of arms and lances.” They believe their way will become more dangerous as they near San Luis Potosi.
  22. 1849, Mar. 22-24

    They leave the rancho on a broad road lined with cactus, alert to attacks along the way, and “entered the splendid and singular city of San Louis [Luis] Potosi, having passed through a beautiful little village before entering” the city.  Antrim offers many details about what he sees in the city and on its outskirts, and mentions sketches 19 and 20, 59 and 60.   In three days in the city, he does much sketching, including “some of the magnificent and beautiful churches” and the governor’s palace. He also rode into the countryside toward the Mosa Mountain, to sketch the domes of the city from afar (no. 24) (see image 45 of volume 4 sketchbook), and he also saw “several hundred Mexican soldiers [who] were exercising with targets, drilling, etc.”  He completes sketches nos. 25 and 26, including fountains and gardens (see images 46 and 44 of volume 4 sketchbook).  He finds the architecture superior to anything he has seen in the states, including Trinity Church in New York.  He sketches the Sanctuary of San Francisco, no. 28, “showing its domes, cupolas, and spines” and admires the “statues, paintings, stuccoed works, altars, tombs, vaults, organs, galleries, painted domes, stained glass” and “majestic gilt.” (see image no. 40 of volume 4 sketchbook). He sketched the Church and College of St. Josephs (San Jose) as no. 29 (see image no. 48 of volume 4 sketchbook), and visited the church of St. Domingo, the interior of which he believes is the most gorgeous he has ever beheld, “like one immense golden gothic palace.”
  23. 1849, Mar. 25

    Antrim finds “several handsome specimens of agate scattered among gravel” and notes that he never heard of or saw any of the silver mines of the state.  Completes sketches nos. 30 of the chief plaza; no. 31, a red sandstone fountain; and no. 32, the market plaza (see images 39 and 47 of volume 4 sketchbook). He finds the markets rich with fruit and praises the scenery of San Luis Potosi, and comments on religious practices and attitudes about government there.
  24. 1849, Mar. 26

    They travel approximately one hundred miles from San Luis Potosi and stay the night at a hacienda, where they stave off intruders who they fear are attempting to steal their horses, donkeys, and mules.
  25. 1849, Mar. 27

    Commence the trek across hot dusty plains. Antrim makes sketch no. 37 of a church in a village, and they stop at a rancho that he sketches as no. 38 (see image 51 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  26. 1849, Mar. 28

    They travel toward the city of San Maria del Lagos, located in “a handsome and fertile valley” with a view of mountain ranges.  He makes sketch no. 39 (see image 53 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  27. 1849, Mar. 29

    Makes sketch no. 41 of the grand sanctuary of San Juan del Lagos. (see image 54 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  28. 1849, Mar. 30

    They depart in the early morning and cross a large stone bridge and take a paved road. He admires the infrastructure.  He sketches no. 42 of a rancho at sunset (see image 55 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  29. 1849, Mar. 31

    Reach the town of Tepatitlán and he sketches the church as no. 43 (see image 56 of volume 4 sketchbook), noting that it is a century and a half old.  They hear of a young man from the United States who is imprisoned on the charge of stealing, which he denied, but feel unable to help him for fear of attracting peril to themselves.
  30. 1849, Apr. 1

    They continue down a long valley and come to an “antiquated Stone bridge, upon which were four square towers, upon two of which were statues of the King and Queen of Spain, with an inscription beneath nearly obliterated by time.” He sketches the great bridge over the waterway as no. 45 and a picturesque landscape as no. 46 (see images 58 and 59 of volume 4 sketchbook).  The party realizes they are seeing their first waterway that empties into the Pacific Ocean, signaling that “our great journey to California via Mexico would soon draw the last chapter to a grateful close.”
  31. 1849, Apr. 2

    He makes sketch no. 47 before they depart (see image 60 of volume 4 sketchbook).  They meet a small party of travelers from New York that recently lost one of their party to an accidental gunshot wound.  They descend in altitude and can see Guadalajara at a distance. He makes sketch no. 48 (see image 61 of volume 4 sketchbook), and they arrive at the city later in the day.
  32. 1849, Apr. 3

    He notes that Guadalajara appears to be much larger than Baltimore.  “Of course, I saw and sketched as much as possible.” He offers details of the city.  Makes sketch no. 49 (see image 62 of volume 4 sketchbook), marveling at the extreme wealth devoted to the religious structures and the labor that went into building them. Creates sketches nos. 52, 53, 54, and 55, and regrets he can only draw a small fraction of what he is seeing (see images 64 and 66 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  33. 1849, Apr. 4

    More Americans arrive in the city.  He draws no 56, “showing the mountains and a small part of the lower valley country” (see image 67 of volume 4 sketchbook) and in no. 57 “I copied a peculiar mountain and a small village to the right of which our road continued its torturous course” (see image 68 of volume 4 sketchbook) and descend into another valley, about 40 miles from Guadalajara. He sketches no. 58, showing the square (see image 69 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  34. 1849, Apr. 5

    Pass through “Tekelah, a town of some importance” shaded by orange groves (see sketch no. 59, image 70 of volume 4 sketchbook). A band of well-armed Mexican men arrive that they suspect to be robbers and are denied lodging. They station sentinels through the night as a precaution.  Antrim describes the night as beautifully pleasant and romantic, “seeming at times like a dream” and featuring a “full and magic Moon” while in sight of the beautiful lake of Madalena (see sketches nos. 60, 61, 62 images 71, 72, 73 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  35. 1849, Apr. 6

    They set off from Madalena and he sketches no. 63 (see image 74 of volume 4 sketchbook).

[end of California Journal/Journey through Mexico Volume 1, begin Volume 2]

Volume Two

  1. 1849, Apr. 6

    Set off early on march “wending our way around that beautiful and interesting lake of Madalena.  Formidable mountains appeared in full view, and an immense country of Sugarloaf hills, sharp peaks, several hundred of which might be seen at one view from elevated positions, at times we passed over a graded road, upon which considerable pains had been taken” and then they ascend into a high valley.  He sketches nos. 64-74 of the highly picturesque Barrancas (a series of mountains and canyons in the Sierra Madre in Chihuahua) and following environs (see images 75-83 of volume 4 sketchbook) as they begin to feel sea winds coming off the Pacific ocean, and view various ranchos, fruit trees, and crops.
    Title page, Benajah J. Antrim, California Journal, Volume 2
  2. 1849, Apr. 7

    See banana and orange groves, genteel houses, and an area of volcanic rock. Makes sketch no. 76 “of a part of the lava fields” and sketches nos. 77 and 78 (see images 85, 86, 87 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  3. 1849, Apr. 8

    Part of the company hurries ahead separately from those with the mule train to Tepec, to try to secure passage for themselves to California, for fear there will not be room for the entire group to go together.  The rest proceed as usual “not at all pleased with the rush for passage.”  They receive different information from passing Mexicans about the likelihood of securing passage up to San Francisco.  He sketches nos. 79 and 80, and as they near Tepec, no. 81 (see images 88. 89, 90 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  4. 1849, Apr. 9

    He goes to a summit of a mountain to see the views for miles around and on this day sketches nos. 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88 (see images 92-97 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  5. 1849, Apr. 10

    They depart from Tepec and go through a northwest pass into red hills, small coves, narrow valleys and shady groves, where fruit is plentiful and the area well settled. Makes sketch no. 89. (see image 98 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  6. 1849, Apr. 11

    See more ranchos and “the country now generally quite level.”  They come to a river and cross the saddles and equipment over by canoe, while swimming “the river together.”  He sketches the river as no. 91 (see image 100 of volume 4 sketchbook).  After a long day’s march, they stopped at the Rancho “Buena Vista,” about 145 miles from Mazatlán.  He makes sketch no. 92 (see image 101 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  7. 1849, Apr. 12

    Passing through palm trees, he makes sketch no. 93 (see image 102 of volume 4 sketchbook).  They encounter another river, which is partly dry and fordable, and reach Camponetta. He makes sketch no. 94 (see image 103 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  8. 1849, Apr. 13

    They come to a “squalid” village where they see a woman in rags whose legs are in stocks “fastened probably for some offense.”  The inhabitants of the place “appeared to be living in misery and starvation.” They press onward and encamp at a Rancho called Ceranso, sketched as no. 95 (see image 104 of volume 4 sketchbook) where they purchase provisions.
  9. 1849, Apr. 14

    They proceed along a long base of rugged mountains to within five or six miles of the Pacific beach, but not yet in sight of the ocean.  He sketches some large and high rocks from the shore of a small salt lake, and then the pretty town of Rosaria, sketch no. 97 (see image 106 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  10. 1849, Apr. 15

    Continuing, they stop at a market plaza at which “immense quantities of watermelons were seen in every direction” and they see individuals come pouring out of a large church on the plaza.
  11. 1849, Apr. 16

    They continue in sight of the mountains, with increasing underbrush and manzanita. He sketches no. 98 (see image 107 of volume 4 sketchbook).
  12. 1849, Apr. 17

    They reach their destination of Mazatlán after seeing mirages in the sand on the hot and dry day.  He sketches nos. 99 and 100 near the port of Mazatlán (see images 108 and 109 of volume 4 sketchbook).  They see hills, some of which “stand out in the ocean.”  He sketches in nos. 101 and 102 a salt lake as they near the port (see images 110 and 111 of volume 4 sketchbook).  As they travel around the lake, they come upon higher ground “and for the first time [had] a broad and beautiful view of the Pacific Ocean, its islands, shipping, and its foaming surfs that chased each other rapidly upon the pretty beach before us.  What a captivating view; two great objects at one view, the Pacific, and the port of Mazatlán with also the gratification of now closing our land journey across Mexico.”  This, he notes, concludes the second great chapter of the journey from Philadelphia, and they are about to enter the third, when they embark up the coast of California (see images 112-121 of volume 4 sketchbook).